Back in Baja... -California, that is.

Well, I made it. Guadalajara to Topolobampo (?), apx 630 miles. Took me 12 1/2 hours, riding constantly, minus toll booths $$!!, gas refueling, inspection stations, getting minorly lost for 2 minutes, and 2 separate stops to eat, about 10 minutes combined. All on 3 hours of sleep.

After getting to the ferry terminal in Topolobampo, I was told the private cabins were sold out, so I "slept" in the bar. Seriously. With about 100 other people. Some of which did not sleep, if you get my drift. Luckily, there was a jukebox to keep them entertained. Boy do Mexicans love their LOUD music! It`s truly amazing how someone can have such passion for noise and festivity, even at 3 in the morning.

So another big ride today. Headed north to catch up with the film crew. I dont think I`ll catch them before they leave Catavinia, so I`ll have to make it to San Ignacio if I can before dark, and camp out and wait. Wish me luck!

Casey

One more thing to add to the list of firsts: brain tacos. Yep. I had 2 of em tonight.

Yesterday was a great time.

My new friend Dr. Raul took me to Tonalá, a district on the outskirts of Guadalajara known for its handicrafts and street vendors. Anything you ever bought in Mexico either came from here or could be found here, from art, furniture, shot glasses, spark plugs turned into whimsicle figurines, belts, pewter dishes, and on and on. We went to an open air glass foundry in the middle of the hubbub where you can watch as pieces are handblown. It's an incredible place.

Afterwards, Raul took me to his families house for a posole- a pre-christmas family get together. We had civiche camerones tostados for appetizers, with a home made secret family recipe picante sauce, sopa camerónes (shrimp soup) with cilantro, lime juice, and picante sauce, followed by an enormous plate of jumbo shrimp, with more picante sauce. Many beers were laid to rest by the family that night. It didnt take long before the Karaoke machine came out, and my dancing abilities were soon under intensive training by Raul´s sisters. I dont dance in the States because I feel that I look foolish. Imagine how I felt in the living room of an enormous Mexican family, WITH MOVES!
The aunts sang me 4 or 5 songs, then it was my turn. The only song they had in English was Mambo #5, and I quickly hacked it to bits with my singing. The Mexicans had mercy on me though, and knowing the words better that I did, proceded to help me through it. A beer bus was organized, and the fiesta continued on until the wee hours.

On the ride home, the police pulled Raul and I over, claiming he was not wearing a seat belt. One of the cops was DRUNK! The younger one, not drunk, kept on harassing Raul for close to ten minutes, trying to get money from him. Raul didnt back down though, and we were finally free to go. Another first- my first Mexican police attempted extorsion! No dice, jerk!

De Jalisco, para el mundo!

Hanging out at Diegos apartment in Guadalajara while he´s off playing doctor today. His friends are really great. I´m taking a relaxation day today, as it´s been nonstop go go go. There are a million things to see here. Cathedrals, Plaza Minerva, huge cemetaries, nightclubs, parks, restaurants, markets, colonial districts, everything!
We went to an Irish bar night before last called Red Pub, you walk through the pub to an Irish style alley, down that into a huge open air pub, decorated like you´re in an Irish street. It was pretty amazing, and authentic as you could get. We ordered big dispensers of beer that sit on your table, and you pour your own as you wish. A large frozen bottle of water sits in the middle of your dispenser-pitcher to keep it cold. When the bar closed at 11, we still had a lot of beer left, so they brought us to-go cups. We left with two each, no problem.
Diego took me on the Tequila Express train yesterday, waking up way too early after the night before, scarfed some breakfast, then caught a cab for the train station. They started serving tequila drinks in a can at 11 or so. The train ride was great. We traveled through the Jalisco countryside, for hours through blue agave fields. Arriving in the town of Tequila, we took busses to the Hurradura factory. The place was absolutely amazing. I could spend days there just taking pictures.
After our tour of the facility, we enjoyed an enormous buffet of every kind of mexican food you could imagine, of course with more tequila, complete with mariachi band, BLARING music, (Mexicans love having their ears blasted out by loud music) and an exibition of the Mexican national sport, Charrería. Charrería is something you might find at a rodeo in the States, where skilled rope-handlers jump and skip through spinning lassos. It was extremely entertaining. After two hours of having my ears bloodied, we loaded back into the train for the ride home.
As the sunset lighted the agave fields and Mexican countryside, we sipped some of the best tequila ever made. We were instructed in the way of true tequila appreciation- you take a sip, roll it around on your tongue, slowly swollow, and as you feel it tingle down your throat, exhale slowly through your nostrils. We were told you can pick up hints of chocolate, spice, Kentucky white oak, and other marvelous sensations. Between tastes, you bite lime and drink sangrita- a kind of tomato fruit juice, sans alcohol. To tell you the truth, I tried very hard to taste these flavors, but no such luck. I may have to do some follow up research.
I heard from Jason and Michelle, my KLR traveling buddies from Canada. They're in Acupulco, headed for Costa Rica for Christmas. I hope to catch up with them later in their trip.
My foot is healing nicely. Still a little purple, but with less and less black every day. I'm going to see if one of the markets here sells Manta Ray, buy a big hunk of it and cook it up for tacos.

Dr. Johnson

My first day with Diego in Guadalajara. He was working in the ER at the childrens hospital, and thought I should tag along for the day. Fully outfitted in tie and lab coat, I followed him around on his rounds. I got the full briefing on each patients condition, symptoms, treatment, and recovery outlook. I even got to get my hands dirty!

A kid was brought in by the paramedics who had been found unconscious at school. Aparently he had drank a few beers, then decided to huff some chemicals for kicks. When he came in, he would fight against the nurses and doctors trying to treat him for 10 seconds or so, then pass out again. This kept up for quite a while, earning him the nickname ¨Superman¨ from the staff. I helped hold him down while they tied him and got an IV going to flush out his system.

Diego took me on a tour of the whole hostpital. Everyone thought I was a hotshot cardiologist from the US, and I stood out like a sore thumb. I had to keep turning my borrowed badge around all day. I didn´t look anything like the pretty young doctora whos picture it was! I figured security would have me arrested in no time, but I just got the hairy eyeball from them a couple times. No problem. It was fun having all the nurses and other doctors call me doctor all day though.

Manta Ray Attack!

A couple mornings ago, I rose early to get a jump on the day. Figured I´d get some fishin time in during sunrise, the best part of the day here in Mazatlan. Got everything ready the night before, so as not to wake up my traveling companions. I picked up my trusty Scott 10wt and gear bag, then headed for the beach about two minutes away. Supporting one end of the rod on a soccer goal post hastily welded together in the sand, I gingerly laced fly line through the eyelets of the rod, slowly pulling the line from my (gorgeous) Nautilus reel, tied on a green and white Clouser minnow.
Stripping line from the reel and casting as I advanced through the surf, I bubbled with excitement as pelicans dove in the water around me for breakfast. Catching a glimpse of movement in the water to my left, I double hauled a cast off in that direction, and stripped in line like mad. Nothing. Nothing again.
I continued chasing shadows and tialfins in this manner for about 10 minutes. Just I was getting warmed up, I saw another fish jump out in front of me. I advanced on him too, slinging line like crazy, really having a good time fighting the waves as they crashed into me. As I was about to make my second cast, I had a sharp pain hit me like a brick wall at 50 miles per hour, and dropped my rod in the water. It felt like someone had jammed a surgical needle into my right foot!
I pulled myself together and picked up my quickly sinking rod. I glanced around to see if anyone had heard my girlish scream of terror. The fishermen waiting by their Pangas down the beach to my left were too far away, but to my embarrasment, I saw an American who had been leaning on the rail of the Malecon, watching me cast.
I tried to play through, but the pain was searing. I was only able to make one half-hearted cast before reeling in my line and high-tailing it for the safety of the beach.
I tried to talk with the guy, but my brain would just not function with the excruciating pain overtaking me. I think I muttered two incoherent ¨sentences¨ before hoofing it back to the hotel. I immediately woke up Jason and Michelle, who I had met on the roadside south of Juncalito, and were also traveling on a Kawasaki KLR. Jason has been a registered nurse as well as EMT, and been on recue missions in Pakistan after the major earthquake there. I ¨dropped trow¨ right there in the passageway by the stairs outside the hotel room, and he gave me a shot of Demerol. I tried to lay down and elevate my already hemmoraging football of a foot, but nomatter how hard I concentrated, I could not make the pain go away long enough to hold still!
Carlos, the manager at Hotel Lerma, rushed me to the emergency room, where I was quickly admitted. The doc asked a few quick questions aboout alergies, and went to work. Jason assisted as various nurse trainees looked on.
Once the local anisthetic kicked in I was somewhat coherant again. In about 15 minutes, I had the toxin drained fom my foot and was feeling 100% better. We went to take care of postop paperwork, and I started getting dizzy. I grabbed the nearest chair for about 5 seconds, then felt waves of nausea wash over me. I looked around the room and managed to squeek out Necesito vomitar! in broken Spanish. I needed a sink! After dry heaving for 5 minutes, I felt better again, but the local was wearing off quickly, and the drug cocktails had made me really sleepy and dizzy.
I lied down again while Michelle went to the farmacy to replace the medical supplies they had used in the ER. It was a free clinic with suggested donation, so we paid $20, replaced the medicines, and were on our way with only $30 out of my pocket, with the prescribed drugs I needed as well.
Between spells of sleep and wimpering, I spent the rest of the day in bed.

Kowabungi Kowasaki

This blog is coming to you from beautiful Mazatlan, Mexico! I´ve been holed up at Hotel Lerma, about three blocks from the Malecon. Great place to stay if you can live without an ocean view and $100 more staying in your pockets each night. Rooms here are about $15 per night, double occupancy. Very clean, very friendly people, family owned and operated, with a secure courtyard and 24 hour security. Thismorning my comrades in travel and I walked across the street for breakfast to a tiny little cafe. For 2 bucks plus tip, I got coffee -cafe con leche, huevos mexicanos- a scramble of all kinds of goodies, fresh made salsa -she made it after we ordered, and a big plate of tortillas for the table. Best two bucks I ever spent.

Again, the parts monkey broke my motorcycle and stuck his hand in my pocket for more pesos! That little sucker! Had the bike picked up by a reputable mechanic and it´s currently being diagnosed for a weld repair. It´s a $8 part, readily available at two days away if needed, but complex in getting to it. We only figured that out after draining the oil and tearing the side cover off the bike in the shade of the hotel parking lot. I have to call the mechanic at five o´clock for his diagnosis. Cross your fingers once again...

I have been invited to go along with Jason and Michelle to Costa Rica and beyond. Still in the process of adding up the possibilities. I may be able to do some guiding in Argentina. We´ll see if I can make it happen.

Got into Mazatlan on the ferry from La Paz, and proceeded to lose my camera on the way to the hotel. I was taking photos while riding- completely safe- and when we stopped for directions it fell off the bike and I didn´t notice until unpacking. Jason accompanied me as we retraced our steps and asked all the street vendors in the area if they had seen it. No dice. The camera itself is not the heartbreaking part- despite having one stolen not too far in the past. The heartbreaking part was losing all the pictures off of it. I had some indescribable shots in there. from Todd and Lyn´s place in Juncalito, as well as all kinds of stuff from the road.

The fruit here is unbelievable. Every corner has blended fruit drinks in the morning. Fresh coconut, pineapple, oranges, bananas, and stuff I have no idea what to call. Cant wait to get one.

Tell all your friends! Coming soon is a BUY PETROL! link, where you can buy a tank of gas and have a picture posted on the internet of me and the bike with a personal thank you in a crazy location. Tell all your friends!

Until then, enjoy the rain and cold. I´ll have a margarita and think of you! Wish us luck.
Casey

Catching up

Just got to Mazatlan on the ferry thismorning. I´ll need to update the blog with a full ride report when I get to Guadalajara.
Quick rundown so far:
Day 1.
Left way behind scedule at 3pm, made it to southern Oregon just in time for nightfall. Yay! The pass south of Ashland was a bit chilly on the bike at night! Snow on the side of the roads, but luckily none on the road itself.
Day 2.
Spent 5 hours on the side of I-5 with a broken chain just west of Bakersfield, the day before Thanksgiving. The guy from the Bakersfield Honda shop was so great, he brought me a new chain, about 30-45 minutes away, then helped me install it! Made it to Oceanside about 1 or two in the morning.
Day 3.
Broke the cardinal rule of motorcycling in Mexico: DONT RIDE AT NIGHT! Pulled into San Quitin about 7pm, and finally got some water and food into my system.
Day 4.
Refilled with barrel gas, and started having carb problems about 30 miles later. No power in the top end. Had to ride about an hour in the dark again to San Ignacio, where I stayed at the Rice and Beans. Those guys are great. Lent me tools, and I spent the morning of day 5 with my bike in pieces cleaning out the carburator. Made it about half an hour and had to pull over to clean it out again. Only made it to Santa Rosalia. Went to a mechanics house and payed him $60 to not fix anything. He showed up to pick me up and take me back to the bike with a brand new starter in his car and a bottle of Mescalita in my seat, about a quarter gone!
Met up with some great Americans in Juncalito who offered me a palapa on the beach, a beer and dinner for my belly, and ended up staying the next day and using their internet to look for parts. ADVrider is great. What a tool to have!
My internet time is up, gotta go! I´ll post more later.

Meeting friends on the beach

As the sun began to set behind the Gigantes de los Sierras just south of Loreto, I spotted some houses and campspots on the beach. Not wanting to spent yet another night scouring the dark for a campsight, I whipped the bike off the road at the bottom of the hill. I followed the side road about half a mile, past some houses and right up to the beach. I was given directions for the campground on the other side of the playa, but after turning the bike around to head over, this dude came out of his house and flagged me down. He asked me a couple of the standard questions, sizing me up, before he made a proposition. He said he and his wife were just cooking dinner, and if I would like to join them, he just happened to have a cold beer in the fridge with my name on it, and my very own open-air palapa right on the beach as well. How can a guy thats been on the road for a week say no to that?!

They put me up for two nights, fed me lots of tacos, beer, coffee and breakfast in the mornings, fresh fruit and great stories. Todd and I swapped stories of our respective times in the Corps while we guzzled down cervesas, bs´d about fishing, and Lyn even took me into town to use the payphone so I could track down some parts for my bike. I got up early both mornings to watch the sun come up, put the fly rod together and waded out to do some fishing. Nothing like the sound of stripping line, rippling waves, and watching fish jump to a purple-pink sunrise.

I didnt stay with them long, but their kindness and hospitality were a godsend. I hope to visit them again, either in Juncalito or their first home in the Bay area.

Todd and Lyn, some of the coolest people in Baja.

AAAUUUGGGHHHHH!!!!

The hits just keep on coming. Now nine days behind schedule, I found out my fly reel is waiting on a bearing, but Jesus @ Nautilus came through for me and is overnighting one from Florida. Should get the reel and my Scott 10wt tomorrow with Saturday delivery. Going to have to skip the GPS purchase for the trip though, as much as I want one. I'm a paper map kinda guy now. The bike is ready to go as soon as I figure out that throttle cable and remount the license plate.
Now if I can just find that battery charger, I'll power up the camera and post a pic.

Guadalajara Countdown

It's now after 3am, and I cant bring myself to do any more research. Gotta get up in less than 4 hours to watch the Oregon USC game at Autzen. Should be pretty sporty.
I've been pouring over manufacturer websites, specs, comparing notes with other motorcycle travel enthusiasts, and looking at options. What a nightmare! Should be pretty well outfitted by the time I leave next week. Oh yeah, I got word we recieved our shipment from PIAA today! 510 ATP lamps and H4 replacement headlight bulbs. I cant wait to get them on the bike and go for a fall nightride battling it out with the deer. Lookout critters!!

regearing

Ok, here's the lowdown: I'm headed to Alaska in a week to do some guiding. I'll be incommunicado for a while, as wireless internet has yet to make it to the wilderness there. SHEESH. I'll be picking up a bike in Anchorage come October, then riding down to Baja before hopping the ferry to Guadalajara. I'll be saddling up some friends in Oregon to make the ride as well. We'll be filming a promo dvd along the way to submit to the networks in our next round of proposals. (If there are any of you network honchos reading this, man have I got a deal for you!)
I'll take plenty of pictures, and hopefully I don't lose the disk they're burnt to this time. (cross your fingers!)
Make sure to tell all your friends about the website and blog. (I've sold my soul for this, so join the club and do the same. I promise I'll put you in the credits.) Help me keep an eye out for funding, sponsors, producers, editors, motorcycle manufactures, or people with big wallets willing to risk it all. Ha! Mom and dad, can I borrow $500,000?

Stay tuned!

Gearing up

Well, August is coming up pretty quick and there is lots to do before we head to Alaska. I still have to buy four motorcycles for the trip. 23,000 miles is a long way to go on an uncomfortable motorcycle.
Thanks to all our great sponsors for hooking us up with deals on the best gear money can buy. Make sure you visit all our sponsors web pages and check out what they have to offer. Just click on their links or logos under our "sponsors" page.
Here's the plan so far:
We'll set out for Prudhoe Bay at the beginning of August, where our official start to the trip will happen. Cameras in tow, we'll head back down through Tok, then Whitehorse, down through Washington and Oregon National Forests, the Redwoods in California, and then meet up with a friend in Baja for a few days of surfing, fly fishing, and fish tacos cooked on the BBQ! After that, we'll hop on the ferry over to the mainland, then to Guadalajara to stay with an old friend and all around good guy Dr. Diego Betancourt. We'll be discussing politics and health care, and the general state of affairs in Mexico before heading off to Tikal.
Well, plenty more to come, so stay tuned.

And by the way, a very special thank you to Shanna for doing such a great job on the website. She comes highly recommended!

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